I was in Brittany recently, and the journey back to Paris can feel quite long. On a whim, I decided to take a different route and made a stop at the Château and Gardens of La Ballue to visit these renowned gardens and topiaries. I had long wanted to see this park, and the opportunity finally presented itself – much to my delight.
The park has held the “Remarkable Garden” label since 2005, and the Château de La Ballue, built in the 17th century (specifically in 1620), was once a retreat for many illustrious writers. Today, the château operates as a hotel, and only the gardens are open to visitors.
A park made up of thirteen living tableaux
The park is divided into thirteen tableaux, each a living scene that brings nature to life. La Ballue is a garden structured around different themes where order and geometry reign, yet without losing a poetic atmosphere. It is a place of control and mastery, yet one that invites you to lose yourself. Be sure to explore the maze, just a few steps away from another natural tableau, fittingly named the “Mysterious Grove.”
Near the château, beds of lady’s mantle highlight splendid topiaries that transport you into a whimsical and enchanting world. Playful lines and perfectly clipped shapes create a sense of wonder. Everything about the topiaries at La Ballue borders on the fantastical: their scale, their forms, their volumes, and the play on height all contribute to a sense of architectural marvel – truly inspiring for any passionate garden enthusiast. With cubes, spheres, spirals, and undulating shapes that echo the nearby sea… if you love topiary art, bring your camera and take notes.
A garden where perspective and topiary art set the rhythm
As you wander through the park, it’s hard to imagine that the gardens were only restored in 1973, after decades of neglect (some areas had even been turned into potato fields!). But the yews, wisteria, ferns, and sweetgum trees quickly make you forget this forgotten chapter, mingling together in an elegant (though deceptive) simplicity. Unlike the lush, romantic style of gardens like Monet’s in Giverny, La Ballue offers a more restrained yet equally charming spectacle – at least in summer – with various shades of green and a few white floral touches to brighten and enliven the whole. The park’s structure is already so well composed that it hardly needs embellishment. Everything here is about perspective and rhythm.
A historic backdrop well worth noting
The Château de La Ballue is located in Brittany, in the Couesnon Valley. The region is what’s known as “bocage” country, a patchwork of hedged farmland that you can glimpse in the distance from the main parterre. The château itself is a beautiful golden-granite residence, originally a 12th-century fortified stronghold complete with a now-vanished drawbridge. It later became a secret base for the Chouannerie resistance and then a royal glassworks in the 19th century. It was designated a historic monument in 1977. Be sure to study the guide booklet provided at the entrance – it’s full of valuable information, especially the names of plant varieties found throughout the grounds. Such detailed documentation is rare in park and château guides, and I truly appreciated having it. I’ll certainly be referring to it for inspiration in our own garden.
Visiting the Gardens of La Ballue is a real pleasure: one finds elements of the classic French formal garden, along with Italian and even English influences at times. Take the time to get lost in the maze, pause near the Temple of Diana to enjoy the view, and let yourself be swept away by the wonder that topiary art can inspire… The gardeners here are true masters – sculptors of nature who shape and care for the grounds with immense talent.
You can also enjoy a welcome break at the tea room, located in a rustic outbuilding of the château, tastefully furnished, where you’ll be able to enjoy a generous slice of homemade cake.
