This little getaway to Brittany wasn’t planned at all. Well… not really. We were just supposed to take care of a few things, spend a night or two at the family house, and head back to Paris as quickly as we came. But with us, nothing ever goes quite as planned! And in the end, this weekend – which didn’t look like much on paper – turned out to be one of the best we’ve had in a long time. Just goes to show: it’s always worth trusting the unexpected and letting yourself be surprised (“Go with the flow” is one of my many mottos – yes, I have one for nearly every occasion, lucky me). Then we carried on to the Étel Ria, where we sometimes stop for chocolates or pastries at Au Petit Prince.
After more than a year without a proper holiday, I never imagined a simple weekend -prolonged almost by accident – could do me so much good. I let myself drift, completely, in this region I know so well… and to top it all off, the weather was absolutely glorious!
Very quickly, the weekend took on a life of its own – full of delicious food and botanical wonders (honestly, could there be a better combo? I seriously doubt it!). We revisited a few of our favorite restaurants, and stumbled upon new ones while meandering down country roads. One gem in particular: a charming seaside spot where, since the tides had ruled out any langoustines, we ended up savoring a beautifully seared monkfish. The place is tucked near Pont-Aven, that beloved village of painters we adore (at least out of season – otherwise, it’s another story). It’s the kind of place that makes you want to linger, to slow down, to soak everything in – and where we’ve made so many sweet memories.
But our best discovery might just have been a truly authentic crêperie, tucked inland and wonderfully unpolished. Needless to say, we devoured both savory and sweet crêpes, washed down with bowls of cider (we are in Brittany, after all!).
In just a few short days, we crisscrossed this beautiful region every which way. Of course, the coastline has its undeniable charm – there’s a light here like nowhere else, tiny ports with gently bobbing boats, and that unmistakable atmosphere of the sea… And yet, I find myself drawn even more to the inland landscapes. Wild, ancient, sometimes forgotten, but stunningly beautiful and full of life. A hidden Brittany: medieval, hilly, wooded, stony, with its old stone houses still standing (more and more are collapsing though), full of quiet character.
But a less idyllic side is starting to creep in – more and more houses are popping up with no rhyme or reason, boxy cubes with flat roofs that look completely out of place, spreading like toxic mushrooms. Why are we letting our heritage be disfigured like this? Why can’t we appreciate the beauty of simplicity – like those lovely old Breton farmhouses and cottages? Why is there no respect anymore for the region’s architectural traditions, and why are so many charming little homes left to fall into ruin? Thank goodness the British have started restoring some of them…
The most beautiful, mysterious, and untamed side of Brittany is found inland. It comes to life along rivers like the Blavet or the Scorff, in villages like Kernascléden and countless others nearby. All it takes is a turn off the main roads, a wander down a path past an old wayside cross, and you feel as if time has stopped. That’s the Brittany I love. Another region that gives me that same feeling is the Périgord – where time seems to stand still, in the best possible way.
Next time, I’ll take more photos… because this time, I was the one driving, and my co-pilot fell asleep! Oh well, I enjoyed the quiet journey all on my own – and it did me a world of good.
We also made the most of our little escape with a visit to the Saint-Ilan nursery, about an hour away – a true treasure trove where we always find the most wonderful plants and trees. Naturally, we didn’t leave empty-handed! Jasminum polyanthum, Tear Drop ivy, a stunning Pinus mugo var. pumilio (its shape is to die for), Rhamnus frangula ‘Fine Line’, Chamaecyparis… and a whole bunch of others. We really ought to consider a pickup or a trailer at this point!
And as if everything were falling perfectly into place, we ended up having a lovely impromptu lunch with friends who live there year-round, in the sunshine by the sea (southern Brittany this time). I also took the opportunity to prune the hydrangeas in the garden, with a little pang at the thought of missing the apple trees in bloom. Thankfully, the pear tree gave us a sneak peek… And I truly can’t wait to go back – I want to rediscover old dirt paths, forgotten chapels, and the places where I used to tag along with my great-uncle when he went fishing.
